Rolex Explorer II vs. Rolex Submariner: A Tale of Two Titans

  • Focus: Explorer II (dual time zones), Submariner (diving)
  • Water Resistance: Explorer II (100 meters), Submariner (300 meters or more)
  • Bezel: Explorer II (fixed 24-hour bezel), Submariner (rotatable diving bezel)
  • Dial: Explorer II (additional orange GMT hand), Submariner (simpler, diver-oriented)
  • Bracelet: Both offer Oyster bracelet

Introduction

Choosing between a Rolex is a momentous decision. These legendary timepieces represent the pinnacle of luxury watchmaking, blending timeless design with unparalleled craftsmanship. But within the Rolex crown, two models reign supreme for adventurous spirits: the Explorer II and the Submariner. Both boast robust builds, exceptional functionality, and undeniable style. However, subtle differences can influence your final choice.

Let’s embark on a journey to dissect these iconic watches, exploring their technical specifications, design aesthetics, and user experiences. By the end, you’ll be equipped to confidently choose the Rolex that best equips you for your next adventure.

The Rolex Explorer II and Submariner are both considered “tool watches” – a term signifying their ability to seamlessly blend functionality with sophisticated design. However, each excels in a specific domain:

Explorer II: This watch thrives in situations where keeping track of multiple time zones is crucial. Think globetrotting adventurers, explorers navigating remote regions, or professionals working across time zones.

Submariner: Renowned for its diving prowess, the Submariner is a trusted companion for underwater exploration. Professional divers and recreational enthusiasts alike rely on its robust build, exceptional water resistance, and specialized features.

While their primary functions differ, both the Explorer II and Submariner share the Rolex DNA – a commitment to quality, reliability, and timeless design.

History

A Timeline of Two Titans

Both the Explorer II and Submariner hold a special place in Rolex’s illustrious history:

  • Rolex Explorer II: Unveiled in 1971, the Explorer II was born from a request by speleologists exploring caves where natural light was absent. The watch’s fixed 24-hour bezel and additional GMT hand allowed them to keep track of both cave time and the time above ground. Since then, the Explorer II has become a favorite among globetrotters, adventurers, and anyone who needs to track multiple time zones.
  • Rolex Submariner: Introduced in 1953, the Submariner revolutionized the world of dive watches. Its robust construction, innovative features like a unidirectional rotating bezel for calculating dive times, and exceptional water resistance made it a favorite among professional divers. The Submariner continues to be a benchmark for dive watches, pushing the boundaries of functionality and style.

Technical Breakdown

Now, let’s delve into the technical aspects that make these Rolex icons tick.

Movement:

The heart of any watch is its movement. Here’s a comparison of the engines powering these timepieces:

FeatureRolex Explorer IIRolex Submariner
MovementRolex Caliber 3187 (automatic)Rolex Caliber 3230 (automatic) or Caliber 3135 (automatic)
Power Reserve48 hours70 hours (Caliber 3230) or 48 hours (Caliber 3135)
Chronometer CertifiedYesYes
Anti-magneticYesYes (Caliber 3230 only)

Both the Explorer II and Submariner utilize Rolex-manufactured automatic movements, ensuring exceptional accuracy and reliability. However, some key differences exist:

  • Caliber 3187: The Explorer II is powered by the dependable Caliber 3187. While offering a slightly shorter 48-hour power reserve compared to some Submariner models, this movement is renowned for its robustness and long-lasting performance. It is also chronometer-certified, ensuring exceptional accuracy.
  • Caliber 3230 & Caliber 3135: The Submariner boasts either the cutting-edge Caliber 3
FeatureRolex Explorer IIRolex Submariner
MovementRolex Caliber 3187 (automatic)Rolex Caliber 3230 (automatic) or Caliber 3135 (automatic)
Power Reserve48 hours70 hours (Caliber 3230) or 48 hours (Caliber 3135)
Chronometer CertifiedYesYes
Anti-magneticYesYes (Caliber 3230 only)

Key Differences Explained:

  • Caliber 3230: This modern movement, found in newer Submariner models, boasts a longer 70-hour power reserve, meaning it will continue to run for up to 70 hours after you take it off your wrist. The Caliber 3230 is also resistant to magnetism, ensuring optimal performance in today’s technology-filled world.
  • Caliber 3135: Some Submariner models, particularly older ones, utilize the dependable Caliber 3135. While offering a slightly shorter 48-hour power reserve, this movement is a workhorse, renowned for its reliability and long service life. Like the Caliber 3187 and 3230, it is chronometer-certified.

Materials and Construction:

Rolex is synonymous with exceptional build quality. Let’s explore the materials that make these watches Rolex-worthy:

FeatureRolex Explorer IIRolex Submariner
Case MaterialOystersteel (stainless steel), RolesorOystersteel (stainless steel), Rolesor
(steel and gold), Everose gold, white gold(steel and gold), Everose gold, white gold
BezelFixed 24-hour bezelRotatable unidirectional diving bezel
CrystalScratch-resistant sapphire with optional Cyclops lensScratch-resistant sapphire
BraceletOyster bracelet (stainless steel)Oyster bracelet (stainless steel)
Water Resistance100 meters300 meters or more
  • Case Material: Both watches primarily utilize Rolex’s proprietary 904L stainless steel, known as Oystersteel. This high-grade steel offers exceptional strength, corrosion resistance, and a luxurious luster. However, both models also offer options in Rolesor (a combination of steel and gold) and precious metals like Everose gold (Rolex’s signature rose gold), white gold, and even platinum for the Explorer II. These options elevate the aesthetic and cater to those who desire a more opulent timepiece.
  • Bezel: A key differentiator is the bezel. The Explorer II features a fixed 24-hour bezel, crucial for keeping track of dual time zones. The Submariner boasts a rotatable unidirectional diving bezel, allowing divers to calculate elapsed dive times and decompression stops. The Submariner’s bezel features a luminous pip for enhanced underwater legibility.
  • Crystal: Both watches boast scratch-resistant sapphire crystals, ensuring optimal clarity and protection for the dial. The Explorer II offers the option of a Cyclops lens, magnifying the date window for enhanced readability. The Submariner does not have a Cyclops lens, maintaining a clean and functional aesthetic.
  • Bracelet: Both the Explorer II and Submariner come exclusively with the Oyster bracelet, known for its robust and sporty look. This comfortable and secure bracelet is ideal for everyday wear and adventurous activities.
  • Water Resistance: A significant difference lies in water resistance. The Explorer II offers 100 meters of water resistance, making it suitable for everyday wear, swimming, and shallow snorkeling. The Submariner, however, reigns supreme underwater. Depending on the model, Submariner water resistance ranges from 300 meters to a staggering 3,900 meters, making them ideal for professional and recreational diving.

Design and Aesthetics: A Feast for the Eyes

Dial Design:

Both the Rolex Explorer II and Submariner offer excellent legibility, crucial for their respective functions:

  • Rolex Explorer II: The Explorer II prioritizes clear legibility for navigating multiple time zones. A classic black or white dial dominates the selection, with large luminous hour markers and hands for optimal visibility in any lighting condition. The key feature is the prominent orange GMT hand, which independently tracks a second-time zone in conjunction with the fixed 24-hour bezel. The date window, typically positioned at 3 o’clock, adds a touch of functionality without overwhelming the clean and uncluttered aesthetic.
  • Rolex Submariner: The Submariner’s dial prioritizes functionality for divers. A black dial is the most common choice, offering exceptional legibility underwater. Large, luminous hour markers and hands, filled with Rolex’s proprietary Chromalight luminescent material, ensure clarity in low-light conditions. The unidirectional diving bezel takes center stage, featuring a graduated scale and a luminous pip for calculating dive times. The date window, typically at 3 o’clock, blends seamlessly with the overall design.

Case and Bracelet:

The case and bracelet are integral parts of a watch’s overall look and feel:

  • Rolex Explorer II: The Explorer II utilizes a similar Oyster case as the Submariner but without the helium escape valve (a feature specific to professional dive watches). The case size is 42 mm, offering comfortable and versatile wear on most wrists. The fixed 24-hour bezel adds a distinct characteristic to the Explorer II’s design. The watch comes exclusively with the Oyster bracelet, perfectly complementing its sporty and utilitarian aesthetic.
  • Rolex Submariner: The Submariner also utilizes the Oyster case, but in various sizes depending on the model. The classic Submariner comes in a 40 mm size, while the Submariner Date and Sea-Dweller offer larger options. The Submariner case may feature a helium escape valve, a pressure relief mechanism crucial for professional saturation diving. The rotatable diving bezel and its prominent luminous pip are defining characteristics of the Submariner’s design. Like the Explorer II, the Submariner comes exclusively with the Oyster bracelet.

Brand Image:

The Rolex brand image is a powerful force in the world of luxury watches. Here’s how it applies to each model:

  • Rolex Explorer II: The Explorer II embodies Rolex’s spirit of innovation and exploration. It’s a watch built for adventure, a trusted companion for those who push boundaries and navigate unfamiliar territories. The clean and functional design reflects these values, with the orange GMT hand adding a touch of boldness.
  • Rolex Submariner: The Submariner represents Rolex’s commitment to precision, reliability, and pushing the boundaries of functionality. It’s a symbol of underwater exploration, trusted by professional divers for its exceptional water resistance and robust build quality. The classic black dial and prominent diving bezel reinforce the Submariner’s core purpose.

User Feedback

Reading user reviews and feedback can provide valuable insights into real-world experiences with these watches. Here’s a general overview:

  • Rolex Explorer II: Owners appreciate its functionality for frequent travelers, clean aesthetics, and comfortable wearability. The orange GMT hand is a conversation starter, and the watch’s association with exploration adds a touch of romanticism. Some users mention that the limited dial options and single case size might not suit everyone’s taste.
  • Rolex Submariner: Submariner owners praise its exceptional build quality, legendary water resistance, and timeless design. The functionality for diving is unparalleled, and the iconic status of the Submariner makes it a desirable status symbol. However, some users find the Submariner to be quite thick, and the all-black aesthetic can be a bit too utilitarian for everyday wear.

Common Problems

While both watches are built to last, here are some potential issues to consider:

  • Rolex Explorer II & Submariner: Due to their high demand, Rolex models can be difficult to obtain at retail prices. You may encounter long waiting lists or inflated prices on the secondary market. Additionally, servicing a Rolex can be expensive.
  • Rolex Submariner (Specific Models): The helium escape valve on some professional dive models adds complexity and requires proper maintenance to ensure functionality. If you don’t plan on saturation diving, a Submariner without a helium escape valve might be a more practical choice.

The Final Lap

Ultimately, the choice between the Rolex Explorer II and Rolex Submariner comes down to your:

  • Lifestyle:
    • Explorer II: Ideal for frequent travelers, those who work across time zones, or anyone who appreciates a clean and functional tool watch.
    • Submariner: Perfect for professional or recreational divers, or those who prioritize a watch built for extreme underwater environments.
  • Needs:
    • Explorer II: Prioritizes functionality for tracking multiple time zones.
    • Submariner: Prioritizes exceptional water resistance and features specifically designed for diving.
  • Personal Style:
    • Explorer II: Clean aesthetics with a touch of boldness thanks to the orange GMT hand. Available in a single case size (42 mm).
    • Submariner: Classic black dial and iconic diving bezel. Offered in multiple case sizes to suit various preferences.

Here’s a quick decision tree to help you choose:

Do you need a watch for frequent travel or multiple time zones? Explorer II
Do you prioritize exceptional water resistance for diving? Submariner
Do you prefer a clean and functional aesthetic with a pop of color? Explorer II
Do you favor a classic black dial and iconic dive bezel design? Submariner

Try Before You Buy

No matter your choice, visiting an authorized Rolex dealer and trying on both watches is crucial. This allows you to assess their weight, size, and how they feel on your wrist. It’s also an opportunity to admire the craftsmanship and intricacies of each timepiece up close. An authorized dealer can answer your questions, guide you through the different models and configurations, and ensure you get the genuine Rolex experience.

FAQs

1. Which watch is more accurate?

Both the Rolex Explorer II and Submariner are chronometer-certified, meaning they meet rigorous standards for accuracy. In real-world scenarios, the difference in accuracy is negligible. Both watches will keep excellent time, making them reliable companions for everyday wear.

2. Which watch is a better investment?

Rolex watches tend to hold their value better than most other brands due to high demand and brand prestige. The Explorer II, with its wider range of materials (including precious metals), might see a slight edge in value retention over the stainless steel Submariner. However, the overall watch market can fluctuate, so future value is never guaranteed.

3. Which watch is easier to service?

Omega watches are generally easier and less expensive to service compared to Rolex timepieces. Rolex utilizes a network of authorized dealers for servicing, while Omega offers more options for servicing through independent watchmakers. However, due to the ubiquity of Rolex, finding a qualified service center for your Explorer II or Submariner shouldn’t be overly difficult.

4. Are either watch waterproof?

While both watches offer water resistance, they are not intended for professional saturation diving. The Explorer II offers 100 meters of water resistance, making it suitable for everyday wear, swimming, and shallow snorkeling. The Submariner boasts superior water resistance, ranging from 300 meters to a staggering 3,900 meters depending on the model. For activities involving deep submersion, a dedicated dive watch is recommended.

5. Are there any other luxury watches to consider?

Absolutely! The world of luxury watches is vast and diverse. Here are a few compelling alternatives to consider:

  • Omega Speedmaster: Renowned for its moon landing legacy and sporty chronograph functionality.
  • Cartier Santos: A timeless and elegant dress watch known for its square case and Roman numeral design.
  • Grand Seiko: A Japanese brand is known for exceptional craftsmanship, innovative movements, and a focus on legibility.
  • Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso: A unique dress watch with a reversible case, offering a hidden dial on the back.

Ultimately, the best watch for you is the one that resonates most with your style, needs, and budget. Explore different brands and models, and don’t hesitate to seek guidance from watch enthusiasts or authorized dealers. Happy hunting!

Conclusion

Choosing between a Rolex Explorer II and a Rolex Submariner is a decision fraught with delight. Whichever path you choose, you’ll be acquiring a legendary timepiece, a symbol of innovation, quality, and timeless design. The Explorer II beckons the adventurer, the globetrotter, the one who thrives on pushing boundaries.

The Submariner calls to the explorer of the deep, the one who seeks precision and reliability in the face of the unknown.